In the following article, Friends of Socialist China Britain Committee Secretary David Peat reports back first-hand observations from a recent trip to Tibet (Xizang Autonomous Region). The visit, part of a commercial delegation assessing tourism offerings, allowed David to experience the beautiful natural scenery, the evident leaps and bounds of development, and the rich, vibrant cultural life of the region. Countering Western narratives which seek to destabilise the region (and China at large) by depicting Xizang as a repressive police state, David was able to observe how the Tibetan language, religious, and cultural practices are integrally woven into daily life, alongside the major improvements in livelihood which have occurred since the founding of the Xizang Autonomous Region, this year celebrating its 60th anniversary.
For thousands of years Tibet, or to give its proper contemporary title, Xizang Autonomous Region, has held a particular mystique for travellers, both in Asia and further beyond. In the West, this has often taken an ‘orientalist’ form, and the realities of life in Tibet were exoticised and misrepresented to fulfil western explorers’ and/or spiritualists’ particular delusions. Then and now, this kind of obfuscation has been weaponised by western imperialist interests to paint a picture of a ‘Holy’, innocent land being repressed by ‘Oriental despots’ (or, in contemporary times, ‘Godless communists’), and therefore requiring of liberation from ‘civilised’ westerners. This was seen in recent decades in the form of the ‘Free Tibet’ campaigns, which wholly ignored both the cruel realities of the feudal, slave-owning system present in the region until its liberation, and the enormous subsequent development taking place.
The reality of life in Xizang is, of course, more complicated, and one of the best ways to “seek truth from facts” and gain an accurate understanding is by visiting the region. Thankfully, this is becoming easier and easier, and I was able to do so recently as part of a large commercial delegation organised by the Chinese National Tourism Organisation.
More than 100 travel agents, representing more than 10 European and Australasian countries, were invited to experience the tourism resources in the region, and decide whether they would be suitable to promote to their clients in their respective countries. A standard practice across the global travel industry, these ‘familiarisation tours’ are operated with the participation of local tourism bureaus, hoteliers, experience providers, and so on. They are offered as ways to promote knowledge of the region, encourage networking, and hopefully increase tourism numbers. However, it is entirely up to the participating travel agent to decide if they wish to develop products as a result (no ‘deliverables’ are required as a condition of joining).
This tour was for six days in Xizang and consisted of two-night stays in three cities: Shannan, Shigatse, and the regional capital of Lhasa. It should come as no surprise that Xizang is a truly outstanding tourist destination. The stunning and diverse natural landscapes, the unique architectural styles and distinct religious/cultural iconography, and above all the welcoming local population, who are more often than found wearing beautiful traditional clothing, make it a genuinely unique location, and one that is sure to become a must-visit destination in coming years. It must also be remembered that Xizang is fully part of a rapidly modernising China, and its socialist construction is evident in all respects—from high quality transport infrastructure to widespread green energy installations. The effects of Chinese President Xi Jinping’s ecological civilisation slogan and nationwide campaign of “clear waters and green mountains” can be felt most strongly here. The juxtaposition of ancient and modern is to be found everywhere, with for example experiencing better 5G on an ancient sacred mountain at 5000m altitude than you would get in central London(!), and being able to leave an offering to a Bodhisattva statue (if so inclined) using the omnipresent WeChat Pay/Alipay QR payment codes.
Discussions with our local Tibetan guide were free and open, and beyond the planned itinerary participants were free to explore cities independently. Despite frequently repeated propaganda claims in the west about intense repression, police and military presence was not strongly evident, and certainly not more so than in the rest of the country. Indeed, a small unarmed police presence at major tourists spots is considerably more relaxed than most European destinations. As we toured historic and cultural sites, of which the guides were quite clearly very proud, they discussed the long and eventful history of the region. Readers looking to better understand the history of the region should seek out the excellent books When the Serfs Stood up in Tibet by American journalist Anna Louise Strong and Tibet Transformed by Polish-born journalist Israel Epstein.
Of particular historical interest on this tour was the discussion by the guide of the destruction of cultural and religious sites by an invading British force in the early 20th Century, the so-called “Younghusband Expedition”, let by the eponymous Colonel, which sought to extend the control of the British empire from the Indian subcontinent and prevent Russian imperial interests from gaining purchase. The invading force, which was composed primarily of British Indian conscripts, was highly destructive and cruel, killing many Tibetans and destroying important historic sites. Also discussed openly was the Cultural Revolution, during which some religious and cultural sites were damaged and destroyed. It should be noted that for the participants these sites represented the feudal and slave-owning system, which had been overthrown in recent living memory (the preceding 10-20 years), and as such the destruction can perhaps be contextualised. In spite of all this tumult, the region retains a huge amount of its historic treasures, and they can be enjoyed and cherished by the locals and visitors alike. Some images from the journey can be viewed here.
Xizang’s population is more than 86 percent Tibetan, with Han at around 12 percent, with other ethnic minorities such as Hui Muslims making up the rest. As was true throughout the country, ethnic minorities were not subject to the one-child policy in Xizang. The prevalence of Tibetan cultural and religious practices, the Tibetan language, cuisine etc., can be seen everywhere, and flies in the face of tales of its suppression. The Tibetan economy has seen huge growth in recent years, outpacing the rest of the country with GDP growth of 9.5 percent in 2023, and, as part of the nationwide campaign and First Centenary Goal, it was able to fully eradicate extreme poverty in 2019.[1] Average life expectancy in Tibet has surpassed 72 years, more than double the figure of 35.5 years recorded in 1951.
Incidentally, during the time of the trip, Panchen Erdeni Chos-kyi rGyal-po (also known as the Panchen Lama), the primary Tibetan Buddhist religious leader residing in Xizang, held an important visit with Chinese President Xi Jinping in Beijing. This year marks 60 years since the founding of the Xizang Autonomous Region,[2] and president Xi expressed the hope that the religious leader “will carry on the glorious tradition of Tibetan Buddhism in loving the country, and resolutely safeguard national unity and ethnic solidarity.”[3]
The “Xizang issue” is likely to become a news item again in the near future, with the “government-in-exile” (and more importantly their imperialist backers) planning to weaponise the succession of the title of Dalai Lama (a religious and political leader). Given the advanced age of the current holder of that title, the succession is almost certain to occur in the coming years.
In accordance with General Secretary and Chinese President Xi Jinping’s view of tourism as “an emerging strategic pillar industry, which has contributed to the people’s wellbeing and their sense of happiness”,[4] travel to the entire People’s Republic has never been easier, thanks to the introduction of many visa-free programs (especially for shorter stays) and simplified visa processing for longer stays. Travel to Tibet/Xizang requires an additional permit which can be secured quite simply by any reputable travel agent that organises group or individual itineraries in China.
Everywhere you go in Xizang you are welcomed with the phrase བཀྲ་ཤིས་བདེ་ལགས། ‘Tashi delek’ [auspicious blessing] and more often than not given a hada, a white scarf symbolizing purity and auspiciousness. This is the sincere attitude of the Tibetan people towards visitors, whether from the rest of the country or further afield, and they are extremely welcoming of international guests coming to experience their rich culture, and to see the life that the Tibetan people are building as an integral part of the Chinese path to modernisation. As such, when planning your next trip to China, consider including a visit to Xizang Autonomous Region for a truly unique and memorable experience.
[1] ‘Xizang experiencing its best period of development’, Xinhua, https://english.news.cn/20240309/908a619bb225490a9e9b766c843bf287/c.html
[2] ‘Logo unveiled for 60th anniversary celebration of Xizang Autonomous Region’, Global Times, https://www.globaltimes.cn/page/202505/1334708.shtml
[3] ‘Xi receives visit from Panchen Rinpoche’, Global Times, https://www.globaltimes.cn/page/202506/1335569.shtml
[4] ‘Xi stresses efforts to promote high-quality development of tourism sector’, Xinhua, https://english.www.gov.cn/news/202405/20/content_WS664b2890c6d0868f4e8e746c.html
